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We visit a Buddhist monastery complex in Zhangye during our rest day. We are amazed at how such big cities can grow in the middle of nowhere land. Water can change the most arid environment into a hospitable habitat. We have seen that all throughout the deserts of Central Asia and
Northwest China
. Treelined wide bicycle and pedestrian ways, square city architecture with tremendously large avenues, cleanliness due to what seems to be “almost zero” unemployment – people are occupied with all kinds of menial tasks such as dusting the leaves of indoor plants or cutting grass beside the road in the middle of nowhere – characterizes modern China. Their cities are so big, but they are so tiny... When once we ordered another round of food at a restaurant they automatically brought it in a doggy bag assuming it was take-away. Of course, they couldn’t imagine how one can eat so much at once!
BLOG ENTRY
ZHANGYE
,
CHINA
JULY 2 DAY 134 KM 8462
Dunhuang was a small city, highly touristic with 125 hotels, numerous restaurants and supermarkets and of course high prices! We are finally glad to see some English signs, which makes our life a bit easier. At the nightmarket the local merchants are used to name tenfold prices and then bargain down trying to make an annual profit in just a few days... Sightseeing included a visit to the infamous Mogao grottoes, Dunhuang’s “diamond” where we saw a multitude of well-preserved Buddhist murals and statues. Later in the evening we walked barefoot on the steep sand dunes of
Mt.
Mingsha
and enjoyed the wonderful sunset view from above of the crescent lake surrounded by yellow sand (days 126-127).
Vasilios has been having trouble remembering where he puts his bloody bike lock key... Since we could not open our lock we had to summon the help of the locals who came with an electric disc. A few seconds later we were free to go! Yet another day of tailwind on the Chinese highway. At the toll booth they always try to stop us, but we end saying hello, speak some words in Chinese and just get onto the highway ignoring them... Danae asks Vasilios for a comment when we approach an absurd road sign in English: I am tired but the “Do not drive tiredly” sign forbids me to ride. Wha to do? What more to expect on these roads? Perhaps policemen offering free alcohol to the drivers? The next sign is even more ridiculous and makes our fantasies come true: DO DRUNKEN DRIVING!!! This is not the first instance where we notice official typing errors. Museums and natural landmarks are full of typos everywhere we go... We stick to the highway because we have to deal with head winds and monotonous terrain, and of course it’s safer and easier to do that on a good quality road (days 128-129).
Before Jiayuguan we meet the massive group (
102 in
number) of French cyclists who started in
Paris
and are destined to arrive in
Beijing
in August as well. Amazingly organized, accompanied not by one minivan like us, but by several large vehicles including trucks with showers, cooking facilities, satellite television and other necessary amenities... They all ride together wearing same jerseys. We don’t think we would be able to follow such a strict regime for such a long time, even if we had to... We ‘d rather have the freedom to choose when to stop, interact with the local, try their food, even spend a night in their homes.
In Jiayuguan the
Great Wall of China
begins. Danae also begins to feel sick again. She is sick of getting sick all the time (vomitting, diarrhea – which actually now looks and feels like water). The French doctor gives her some medication, and she spends the following day in the van, while Maciej, the Polish co-driver uses her bicycle to travel the
70 km
till our next campsite. Vasilios visits a Buddhist monastery on the way to a scenic mountain location where the wall has been restored (day 131).
Even though not fully recuperated Danae ventures ahead on her bike again! Two nice campsites by water canals –this time without any flooding – gradually mark the end of the sand and the increase of fertile areas.
Gansu
province has made a significant effort to get rid of the desert by planting millions of trees and creating a highly sophisticated irrigation system. (days 132-133)
Danae misses the feeling of being hungry after several Immodium pills and a sensitive stomache.
We visit a Buddhist monastery complex in Zhangye during our rest day. We are amazed at how such big cities can grow in the middle of nowhere land. Water can change the most arid environment into a hospitable habitat. We have seen that all throughout the deserts of Central Asia and
Northwest China
. Treelined wide bicycle and pedestrian ways, square city architecture with tremendously large avenues, cleanliness due to what seems to be “almost zero” unemployment – people are occupied with all kinds of menial tasks such as dusting the leaves of indoor plants or cutting grass beside the road in the middle of nowhere – characterizes modern China. Their cities are so big, but they are so tiny... When once we ordered another round of food at a restaurant they automatically brought it in a doggy bag assuming it was take-away. Of course, they couldn’t imagine how one can eat so much at once!
Their television channels insist on portraying consumer and western influenced role models. It is strange to see so many ads for diets and slim-down products in a country where people have traditionally had healthy attitudes and diets. Perhaps we are experiencing a new trend due to globalization. At the same time communist ideas are present throughout: lots of propaganda that touches the common man through music, theater and the media: images of the recent earthquake disaster in Sichuan are constantly projected along with melodies sung by choirs and members of the public emphasizing the central role – the courage and self-sacrifice - that police and the military have had during the rescue efforts (day 134).
Tags: Zhangye China Cycling Desert Dunes Great Wall Irrigation
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