Xi'an, China
Written by Vasilios Mesitides   
Jul
30
2008

Danae goes on a tour with Mark, Monica, Carlotta, Nijole, Daumantas, and two Chinese university students, Rhett and Ernest (English names of course).  They visited the Grand Mosque, which blends traditional Chinese and Islamic architecture.  It’s situated in a magnificent old garden which is full of bird sounds and intense fragrances of antique wood.  They also went to the Wild Goose Pagoda and played around under Asia ’s largest water fountains, which created splendid figures following the melodies playing in the background. Chinese tourists and locals bring their children half-naked to be refreshed by the splashing water and spend a day away from the heat.  Lunch at KFC is yet another attraction for many Chinese, who are beginning to have Western habits (day 151).

We now have about two weeks and 1400 km left until Beijing .

 

BLOG ENTRY  XIAN, CHINA JULY 19 DAY 151  KM 9789

We have decided to take a different route than that of our group because we want to visit a certain mountainous region further south.  We will part for the next 9 days until we meet again in Xian.  Before leaving Lanzhou we visit Richard at the hospital. He has had surgery and is now in recovery.  We are glad to see him!  He is eager to be well and hopes to join us soon.  The doctors have told him he can cycle again after 2 weeks... Chinese medicine or what???

 

We are happy to leave the urban area behind and ride once again in more peaceful surroundings. Even though we are typically not allowed to enter the highway we frequently do so – the police doesn’t seem to mind and often cheer us on – to quickly cover distances.  We stop at a village for lunch and Monica, who has been riding with a group of Germans – they are riding from Athens to Beijing – rejoins us after an absence of three weeks.  When she hears that we are taking the southern route she decides to come along with us.

 

A quick stop at our campsite for her to repack – we witness Carlotta’s unpitched tent being blown by the wind into a small reservoir below – and we continue our route late in the evening.  The same night we are hosted at a toll booth officers’ building next to the highway. Amazing hospitality!!! (day 142)

 

 

We are given breakfast by the officers before leaving in the morning.  The weather has been cloudy, occasionally rainy, for the past couple of days, and we continue on the highway to get closer to our destination.  We ask at a rest area gas station if we can take a short nap, and they give us a room to sleep in – obviously on their beds. 

 

 

The weather is by far optimum, yet the landscape compensates for everything.  Terraced slopes with patchworks of colors create an ideal atmosphere for cycling.  The highway has now given way to a much narrower two-direction road that winds itself up and down through the green mountains offering us panoramic views of the small villages in the valleys around us. 

 

 

This perfect scene is intermittently disrupted when towns make their appearance, fortunately once every 60 km .  We camped in one such village next to several haystacks.  Of course, pretty soon the area was crowded as peasants rushed to satisfy their curiosity, most of all children (day 143).

 

 

The children’s voices saying hello outside our tent wake us up around 6 in the morning. Photo sessions with a large part of the village follow prior to our departure. We feel so warm, and it’s hard to say goodbye.  We have been at high altitude for a day or so, and today we have downhill for many kms.  A quick lunch at a truckers’ stop by the road under the constant drizzle and we are off since we wish to reach the city of Tianshui and sleep in a hotel.  We ride through numerous tunnels before a steep descent into a valley where the city lies at almost 1700m.  We visit a Daoist temple and the three of us share a room at a nice hotel for 17 Euros including breakfast! (day 144)

 

Our laziness is evident since we don’t leave until noon. This happens every time we stay at a hotel overnight, almost unconsciously, even though we always wish to be on the road early on.  The next few days will be amazing despite the rainy and, at times, torrential weather.  We ride 45 km to Maijishan ( Mt. Maiji ), an area of unbelievable beauty.  Lush green hills everywhere, karst caves and rock cliffs, endless trails to hike on, and of course Maiji hill with its famous grottoes, which are filled with Buddhist statues. 

 

 

Occasional rain forces us to take shelter and wait for it to subside.  We manage to visit the grottoes before dark and ride our bikes up a hill to a luxurious hotel, where the German group is staying overnight.  Monica will stay with her boyfriend in a cabin, while we sleep with workers in a large tent that houses about 20 people (day 145).

 

 

We do lots of hiking around the hills on old, unused trails away from the most visited ones.  We visit a holy cave on the side of a steep rocky face that rises hundreds of meters up from its base, an artificial lake and wander around the picturesque trails between streams, cliffs, and lush hills.  Occasional downpour makes us wet and cold, but the scenery is so amazingly worth the trouble. 

 

 

We end up sleeping in an annex of a private house that is being used as a guesthouse for 1 Euro per person.  We are reluctant to leave this national park, but we must move on... (day 146)

 

 

 

We decide to ride on dirt road with areas of deep sandy mud for 10 or so km to visit the local hot springs . This is the first day of good weather after five consecutive days of greyness...  We buy swimsuits from vendors outside the facilities and relax for an hour in a pool of circulated hot water from an underground source.  We ran across Marcin and Mariusz, two Polish from our group, who also decided to take the same route.  Continuous ups and downs mark the rest of our route through a narrow valley between tall mountains on either side.  We will once again camp in a village in a flat area just above the river bank where locals stack their hay (day 147). 

 

The road gradually descends, and we are soon below 1000m of altitude.  It’s interesting to note that we have been riding for several thousands of kms at high altitude – always above 1300m - since Uzbekistan . Soon the mountains become more distant.  The landscape will be flatter from now on.  We witness a strange phenomenon: swarms of agressive bees cover a distance of over 30 kms along the highway we are on.  Even though we cover ourselves the best we can Danae is stung once while Vasilios attracts not one, but three of them.  His ear suffers the most: two stings at almost the same spot results in a lasting swelling... We cover a distance of 150 kms today and reach Meixian, where a local teacher of English helps us find a hotel room (day 148).

 

 

Monica wishes to visit her boyfriend in Xian and leaves the hotel early in the morning.  We decide to relax since we are not in a rush and leave around noon.  We quickly cover the distance on the highway.  We stop at a rest area, where a bunch of truck drivers pay for our lunch.  Before dark we exit the highway looking for a place to sleep.  We have reached the outskirts of Xian and enter the city of Xianyang – with almost half a million inhabitants.  Finding a sleeping place in an urban area is quite difficult.  We are quite lucky to find a real estate agency – they sell apartments at newly constructed high-rises – where a couple of elderly guards do their best to accommodate us.  They give us a small room with beds, and Li Xiong and Fan Xin, two agents who were working till late, invite us to dinner.  We couldn’t have imagined a better ending for our day.  We have experienced Chinese hospitality on numerous occasions despite our difficulty to verbally communicate with them (day 149).

 

An early start to enter the historic city of Xian – the former capital of China , which now has close to 5 million inhabitants.  Traffic, lots of people, shops and restaurants.  The significant historic sites are overshadowed by the modern city life.  We rejoin our group at the hotel and take a quick bike tour through the busy roads before retreating for the night (day 150)

 

 

Vasilios has acute diarrhea and needs to stay inside.  Danae goes on a tour with Mark, Monica, Carlotta, Nijole, Daumantas, and two Chinese university students, Rhett and Ernest (English names of course).  They visited the Grand Mosque, which blends traditional Chinese and Islamic architecture.  It’s situated in a magnificent old garden which is full of bird sounds and intense fragrances of antique wood.  They also went to the Wild Goose Pagoda and played around under Asia ’s largest water fountains, which created splendid figures following the melodies playing in the background. Chinese tourists and locals bring their children half-naked to be refreshed by the splashing water and spend a day away from the heat.  Lunch at KFC is yet another attraction for many Chinese, who are beginning to

have Western habits (day 151).

 

We now have about two weeks and 1400 km left until Beijing .


Tags:  China Xian terraced slopes Tianshui Maijishan Mt. Maiji Meixian Xianyang Wild Goose Pagoda fountains
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WOW!
Rhett 2008-07-31 02:33:11

Wow,It's pretty good!I also have many pictures about we toured in Xi'an city.I
think they all perfect.I will sent more wonderful pictures to you by
E-mail.Enjoy your Olympic journey every station.Frankly speaking,It's great!
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Greatings
Holger Halfmann 2009-06-22 15:40:41

Concratulations that you have been able to sleep in a Guesthouse. In Beijing
they call them "Unnderground Hotels" During (or since) Olympic Year they
are closed for foraigneers.

Foraigners only can sleep officialy in the
expensive State Hotels. I refused and sometimes Police payed me a Hotel Room if
they which that I did not sleep outside.

In China a Truckdriver gave me a 3500
km Ride in his Truck for 3 days.. (it was to hot to ride a bike and a new
experance and more time in Beijing)

But some of the landsape above (Picture 4
and 6 from down) I found also during my ride from Beijing to Shanghai - see my
blog www.azoren2007.blogspot.c om in the next months. Right now only Athen -
Beijing is Online. Coming more... Also many Pictures. I will Llink also your
page at one of the days in the Truck

GOOD LUCK
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